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MATTERS OF CONCERN, CARE AND

CONFLICT

In June the island of San Pietro is a crowded jumble of people arriving for the annual

migration of Atlantic bluefin. In the past people mostly came to work on the tonnara

or trade tuna. Now people arrive with diverse motivations – research, heritage trade,

conservation and leisure. In 2013 tourists arrived by ferry for the Giro di Tonno tuna

festival. With the motto ‘dal Sulcis a sushi’ (from Sulcis

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to sushi ) the event appeared at once global and local. Among the many festival

activities was the popular tuna cook off, which attracted international and national

chefs, and a panel of mostly Italian judges. Each night the judges tasted, commented

on and scored tuna dishes. An Italian TV celebrity emceed, revving the crowd who

shared in the gastronomic experience. Journalists arrived from all over Italy, the UK

and USA to narrate tales of the tuna.

Beyond the bustle, the daily tending of the traps continued. The tonnarotti

arrived on the island the way they did every morning of the season, by boat from the

nearby town of Portoscuso. Owner Giuliano Greco was down for the season from

Genoa, repeating an annual childhood journey made since his father managed the

tonnara. Javier travelled with two divers from Cartegena, Spain on behalf of the

Fuentes group (bluefin trading company), to manage and monitor their tuna

acquisition. Two scientific observers joined the team – a national observer who

travelled from mainland Italy to ensure regulatory compliance, and an international

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