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Fig. 6.5 Antica Tonnara di Favignana, Antonio Tammaro. Brochure collected 2013.
Through the framework of assemblage I would now like to concentrate on taste, and
suggest that there is a “taste network” of human and more-than-human components that are
connected, and changing in relation to the tonnara. A taste network frames the connections
between taste in a gustatory sense, taste as an aesthetic preference and tasting as a way of
learning about and attuning to modes and meanings surrounding tuna. Learning to process,
cure and taste tuna is also about attuning to gustatory tastes just as much as attuning to
meanings and practices surrounding tuna. As Antoine Hennion (2007) asserts, taste is more
than a connoisseurship of an object: taste represents a cultural activity that concerns a wide
range of practices, exchanges and attachments. Probyn suggests that taste ‘acts as a connector
between history, place, things, and people’ and ‘can also come to form communities: local
places that are entangled in the global’ (2012, p. 62, p. 65). Within this framework, taste
moves away from Bourdieu’s notion of taste as a social distinction towards an understanding
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