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owners’ economic opportunities. However, not all fishermen, including one I spoke to at the

port, want to change professions.

Fig. 6.6 ‘Nelle Egadi Rivive L’Antica Civilita` delle Tonnare’ (In the Egadi the ancient civilization of the
tonnara is relived), (1984).

On both islands (Favignana and San Pietro) tourism is partly built around practices

and ideas of local and regional food. Like much of Italy, notions of place, environment,

identity, quality and authenticity are central to the culture of tuna production and

consumption. Food products are widely understood to be connected to place through

ecological, cultural and technological dimensions, such the origin label products I referred to

earlier in the chapter. According to Morgan et al. this frames food and tastes in relation to a

spatial dimension (its place of origin), a social dimension (its methods of production and

distribution), and a cultural dimension (its perceived qualities and reputation). As I walk

down the main street of Carloforte and of Favignana, the traditions of the tonnara and tuna

are palpable. Evocative murals and images on postcards of tonnarotti heaving large tuna from

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