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in the stabilisation of certain aspects of a past and the loss of others. The 2015 EU proposal
provides a good example: it situates the trap within the borders of permissibility and relegates
the mattanza and wider post-harvest practices to a position of historical and cultural
background, effectively irrelevant to the future tonnara. Here tradition is a malleable term
that exists in the system of fishing for tuna but that stops at the net. As a result the tonnara is
redefined and the harvest and local processing industries obscured. The contemporary
tonnara is reconstituted as not only a food procuring system but as a system for collecting
scientific data about tuna.
These transformations are produced through the conditions of sustainability. They are
in response to the particular forms of modern fishery regulation, which is based on
controlling access to fishing via the quota system and regulated through regional bodies and
the nation state. In the case of Italy, fishery regulation through quota happens in highly
politicised and unequal ways, at the expense of what it is to be a fisherman in southern Italy
or at least a tonnarotti in San Pietro and Favignana. Within this political context the EU
proposal is an appeal to tradition and to sustainability. This is an example where the political
will and the processes of justifying the trap have interfered with the practice of harvesting,
preserving and trading tuna. It is also a clear example of the problems of bifurcating nature
and culture as distinct areas of governance and intervention. As a result, even attempts to
account for tuna as well as tuna fishers, are thwarted by the institutional embeddedness of
nature and culture as distinct areas of intervention.
Barbara Neis et al. suggest there is a ‘global ecological revolution’ that is based on
‘the transformation of nature, our productive relations to nature, the reproduction of the
fishery household and communities and the dominant legal, political and ideological
frameworks that govern fisheries’ (in Power 2005, p. 102). This ‘global ecological
revolution’ impacts the lives of fishery dependant peoples, which are mediated by
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